Thursday, June 05, 2008
Really Coach! It was my Rigger!
written by LuLu
June Blog Topic:
"Frustrated in Four Seat" writes:
Dear TRR Bloggers:
I really don't know what a good setting is for my oar height, my foot stretchers and the collar on my sculling oars!
I'd like some Q&A and hands on...."this is what will happen if you don't have enough spacers.....when all 8 are in the boat but not moving, your rigging might seem to be at the perfect height, but once you get moving, the boat lifts out of the water and you might miss water if you have too many spacers on...."
I know it will change from boat to boat. How do I consistently determine what a good setting is for me in any boat?
Please post your comments below in the "comment" section.
Have a great day! Enjoy the weather--I think summer has finally arrived!
June 6, 2008 at 1:15 PM
I know I've been perplexed of late when rowing in the quads... it seems like everytime I've used the boat, the spacers are mismatched (have seen this at least 3/4 times now) - I thought that the left hand over right height differential was already baked into the riggers and that you didn't have to compensate with spacers. If someone could confirm for everyone else's benefit... or correct me if I've got it wrong...
June 7, 2008 at 8:05 PM
I believe that the starboard oar is rigged slightly higher than the port oar in the sculling boat. Let's ask coach.
June 8, 2008 at 10:41 PM
Right over left:
standard oarlock differential from starboard to port w/sculling shells is 1-2cm (starboard higher than port or left above the right). I prefer 1 cm.
The default for most shells (1x's, 2x's 4x's: hudsons, vespoli's, kaschper's, fluid design ect) is for the differential to be built into the rigger...thus the spacers should be equal with both pins.
If a shell or it's rigger has been damaged and/or repaired, there might be a case for this differential to be different (such as the brittany lynn 4x).
The best way to measure left over right is to take a straight edge, preferably one that spans both gunwales and reaches out to the oarlock. Measure the difference between some point on the straightedge and the oarlock. Reverse the straightedge to other side of shell and do the same...take the difference. It is important not where on the oarlock that you measure, but that you do so the exact same spot with the oarlocks the same angle to the shell when doing so.
June 8, 2008 at 10:51 PM
sculling inboard:
standard sculling inboard length is 86-89cm.
The best length per individual has to do with that person's size and strength. It's all about the right amount of leverage around the fulcrum point that is your oarlock/pin as well as ability to achieve a desirable angle of the blade to the boat.
As simple an answer for starting point (it's best to experiment with variables: inboard or outboard length; span; oarlock height; footstretcher height or lengths one at a time. Keep a journal so you can assign attributes as objectively as possible)
Men: inboard 88-89cm
Women: 86-87cm.
This is simply a starting point.
If you've a shorter body, then you'll want a shorter inboard so that you can achieve a good angle with blade to the boat. Too long an inboard and you will be limited. If you go too short, and get so wide an angle at compression, load might be too heavy...conversely if you've a larger body, with too short an inboard, you'll be missing out on a certain amount of leverage that someone of proportional size might be achieving.
End of day, go with recommended starting points and experiment either direction in a centimeter. If it doesn't make much of a difference, then do so with two cm just for perspective sakes.
Best case scenario, use a coach to help you as he/she can look at your compression and release angles as well as your draw through and determine if you might be under/over/just right with your leverage and angles.
June 8, 2008 at 10:59 PM
Sculling foot stretcher length:
As with everything, there are shades of comfort for what works best from one rower to another.
When setting a rower's footstretchers with sculling, or my own for that matter:
Go to the release and determine at what point the arc of the handles come past my body- no touch, slightly touching, really touching or cannot pass. I prefer to row and coach with the handles slightly touching to can barely pass the body.
It is very important when checking this to do so, if possible, after a few strokes. Almost all of us sit taller at the release for measuring purposes that where we actually lay back to.
If the handles are too close to the body whereby the handles are limited with their separation, a rower is limited with their range of motion.
If the handles come into the body whereby the arc is too far away from the body, the rower is missing valuable connection and leverage against the blade.
Either the arc too close, or too far from the body, your ability to execute a reasonable release motion against the handles is also limited.
Again, each rower has a comfort zone with the arc of the handles in relation to the body. If you don't know which suits you best, go to the extremes, setting yourself too far to the stern (bringing the arc in tight) or further to the bow (pushing yourself away from the arc) and see what the differences are.
June 9, 2008 at 2:39 PM
I just have to tell you this funny story: My very first rowing coach when I was a wee little freshman at Pitt yelled at us and said," It's not the chariot! It's the horse!"
"So, whatever"--as we said as college rowers and went about our way rowing in a old wooden boat that was warped--stern pair leaned to port and bow pair leaned to starboard. (or vice versa--I can't remember.)
Anyway, with all the adjustments we can make, or can control--there are still those variables we can't control, like rowing in size 13 men's shoes, when you wear a size 7in women's. Hey, maybe I like rowing feet out all of the time! Or the weather, river conditions, other rowers in your boat, PMS. You still have to be very adaptable to your situation--after you adjust your foot stretchers of course!